The great thing about The Balmoral Hotel where we were staying on our visit to Scotland was that you could check in for our train journey on The Royal Scotsman for the second part of our bucket list travel. We were advised to check in by 11:15 with our bags. The porter retrieved them from our room and all was done. Then there was a little reception in a lovely room on the Mezzanine, but we were told to go have a light lunch in the hotel restaurant on them. This was one of the many perks for staying in one of four Grand Suites on the train. When I booked the trip I thought ‘why not?’ stay in a large (for a train) cabin. We are not getting any younger so we might as well be pampered. We went for lunch then arrived back at the reception and were offered champagne and met our host, Mark Nash, a dapper charming man, who explained the boarding procedure and answered any questions we had. He would be aboard and was really a fine host throughout our voyage. The entire group of passengers numbered 24, all Americans, but us.

We were both getting excited to start our 7 day journey living onboard the luxurious train. We left the hotel and directly beside the Balmoral, that was once a railway hotel, we descended down to the tracks at The Waverley Station, and waiting for us was a piper and other passengers. We entered the train and went immediately to the Observation Car where there was more champagne and some hors d’oeuvres. This started a trend for the entire trip of drinking wonderful champagne and eating masses of incredible food. And being piped in to many glorious places. We also started meeting our fellow guests.

Piper at the station before boarding

In the observation car with my first champagne

Before the journey we received a large stunning very retro box filled with a pen, an ancient styled map, and large diary for notes, and a sleek booklet that described our daily excursions. We had already met one of the guests in the Scotch Bar see (The Magic of Scotland Part 1) https://suddenly70.ca/2026/09/12/the-magic-of-scotland-part-1/at the hotel. He seemed very friendly and was from Ann Arbor, Michigan. We spent some time with Doug and his wife Stephanie on the trip and really enjoyed their company as we did another couple from Orlando, Greg and Dar.

But the time had come to see our cabin and unpack. We met our steward, the marvellous and extremely efficient, Karen, waiting in our suite to show us around. Well, this was a train after all and very narrow, but brilliantly decorated with a bedroom area and a double bed that filled the space, separate cupboards for each of us with full length mirrors, a small living room area with a tartan couch, and drawers underneath, a small bathroom with shower and sink, and enough space in there for one at a time, but perfectly adequate and wonderful, lots of hot water and water pressure. In the living room there was a very large window by a table and chairs, and large window in the sleeping area. Also shelves with welcoming bottles of Signet Glen Morangie, and a bottle of Dom Perignon. Pretty nice. We brought them home. Some souvenirs! We unpacked and it was soon time to join the other guests in the Observation Car, a sleek train car fitted like a living room with a bar at one end and an outside deck at the other.

Karen, her daughter, Robin, and Mark, our host all out at lunch

in our cabin beautiful woodwork and lovely couch

The train was already moving through the country side and I was learning how to balance my walk from one car to another. We freshened up and went for drinks, followed by a sumptuous dinner. The bar white wine was a Sancerre or Chablis and of course there was always excellent champagne, but before I get into some details of our journey, I must give you an overview of my experience. I loved the train and just being on it. I loved sleeping on it with its gentle rocking from side to side. Taking a shower and doing makeup was definitely a balance challenge, but I loved it. I loved the sumptuous dining cars, one in red velvet, one in a soft green. Gorgeous cutlery, and dishes and wine glasses, great service. We got to know all the staff. I loved getting up in the morning, getting dressed for the day’s excursion off the train and heading to the dining car for a wonderful, choice filled breakfast. Charles drank many cappuccinos, and they had excellent herbal fruit teas that I adore. Of course there was Scottish oatmeal, Scottish smoked salmon, eggs done as you like, a full Scottish breakfast, croissants that had been rising overnight, amazing pancakes with berries and cream.

Views of the two dining cars and the charger

The galley where all this magic came from was very small and narrow. Actually there were two galleys. Astounding how the chef did all these offerings. We only ate lunch once aboard, but dinner every night except one, was served in the dining cars, and at breakfast you could view the evening menu and choose to make any changes as it was a fixed menu. The wines at dinner were different every evening with choices of reds like Amarone and Pomerol, and there was Puligny Montrachet and Gevrey Chambertin. Naturally, in the bar there were choices of Scotch whiskey and I do love my cognac, ( I thought there might be only Scotch whiskey (or whiskey as the Scots call it) At first I drank Hennesey VSOP but then I discovered the XO. I was a very happy girl. Dinners ranged from all kinds of delicious fish and shellfish, as well as beef tenderloin, to duck and other poultry dishes, always accompanied by delicious vegetables and a starch. Neat portions, although as the trip progressed I asked for half servings of everything so I could also enjoy the appetizers and dessert. In the observation lounge before dinner we were offered tasty small delicious one mouthful hors d’oeuvres. There was great pride in the meals. And again unbelievable that everything was made on board in the tiny galleys! Everything including pastries. I did note that at various stops more produce, wines etc.were brought onto the train.

a sample menu

In many ways our trip was like being aboard a ship or rivercruise where you stopped every day for excursions. The Royal Scotsman leased its own bus with logo on it, a very comfortable large windowed vehicle, and Carl, a lovely man, was our driver. Before the trip we ordered a kilt for Charles from Kinloch Anderson, a very stylish and classy kilt provider. I took the measurements so it was anyone’s guess how well it would fit, but the kilt kit with Bonnie Prince Charlie dress jacket including shoes, dagger, knee socks, tie etc. was waiting in our cupboard when we arrived, and we left the outfit there at the end of the journey. Great Service. They had a choice of tartan, but Charles’ family tartan, the Fraser of Lovat, was not available. Yes he is Danish too, but for this trip we enjoyed his Scottish ancestry. It was curious that he chose exactly the same tartan that the other men on the trip chose! What fun to watch him getting ready for almost 40 minutes even with the assistance of Karen, who obviously was well versed in kilt dressing on a moving train!

Karen assisting with the kilt

and the final look before our first gala aboard

Our daily excursions were excellent. What was most delightful was at least one crew member was included on our trips and it was a chance to get to know these people who cared for us daily. Generally we did an excursion every day after breakfast and lasting into the afternoon. Some of the highlights were:

A visit to Glen Mornangie, the maker of fine whiskey. We had a tour and explanation of the distilling process, tasting of many whiskeys ( all at 10:15 in the morning! ), and a delicious buffet lunch that included fresh lobster rolls.

Glen Morangie with it’s giraffe theme

a whiskey making tour

A trip to the Orkney Islands by ferry and a a day of learning about the neolithic village buried there, Scara Brae, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skara_Brae, and The Italian Chapel which particularly interested us. There was a prisoner of war camp there that housed several hundred Italian soldiers, one of whom wanted to build a chapel. His name was Domenico Chiochetti and his achievement along with other soldiers was remarkable. Please check out the links I have attached for a complete detailed story of what was called the Miracle of Camp 60. It is very touching and inspiring.

The Italian Chapel

Underground living at Scara Brae

Lunch at Kirkwall with our historian/piper Andrew MacKenzie performing as we ate Haggis in the form of Neeps and tatties, was delicious. The nips, parsnips, tatties mashed potatoes. Kind of like a shepherds pie made with haggis.

The mystical Isle of Skye where we toured Dunvegan castle and its gardens. This was meaningful to me as I sang the Songs of the Hebrides for years, and now I was on one of the many islands in the Hebridean group.

A pleasant boat ride on Loch Lomond on a sunny day.

An afternoon of smoked salmon and whiskey tasting out on a large field or I think called a glen, where Mark’s dog ( our host and organizer of absolutely everything every day) was retrieving and delighting us with his antics, the dog that is. There was a fly fishing demo and a visit with Hamish who was showing his wares of tartans for order if you wanted to get a bespoke kilt.

what a spread

Nightly concerts of Scottish music in the Observation Bar. Accordion, fiddle, keyboard and singers entertained us, and one well known Scottish band was especially unusual and terrific, with a jazzy edge. MànRan.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mànranhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loch_Lomond

Our Christian Dior massages in the moving train. I loved mine and had it early in the morning, and then appeared at breakfast, rosy faced and wearing my robe.

Our caviar treat with iced vodka in our cabin served by Karen. Fantastic!

one of the nightly groups that performed for us

Little gifts left in our cabin every night, including a silver key chain fashioned by Hamilton and Inches in the shape of a train car, a small tartan flask, books on the Orkneys and Skye, chocolates, a silver picture frame with our picture in it, and the coffee table book of Dunlanrig Castle.

A visit to St. Andrews and walk about the charming town with views of the ancient golf course, then lunch nearby at Ship Inn which started with a cold seafood plate of Cumbrae oysters, langoustines, hot and cold smoked salmon followed by whipped cream cheese and caviar. Then haddock and chips or pan fried hake, or for land lovers, a steak. Of course many glasses of wine and then dessert of 70% chocolate brownie. Yes, I was starting planning my diet after that. We stayed and watched a beach cricket match put on by the hotel. All great fun and joy.

St. Andrews

beach cricket at Ship In

lunch at Ship Inn

The fabulous staff that we got to know by name

Max and Alex joined Charles and I on the horseshoe shaped steps

Finally, the true highlight of our journey; Dunlanrig Castle gala evening.

Rembrandt over the fireplace

You could feel the excitement on our last day and the knowledge that we were going to experience something unique and special at the castle. We were all getting ready, the women in cocktail/dressy attire and the men in kilts. Back at our cabin I showered, washed my hair and started my make up in a moving train. No small feat. We were to be ready by 5:30 and Charles had started the great struggle with his kilt which seemed to have gotten longer. We buzzed Karen and she flew into the room and started to help him. I smartly got ready first. At the appointed hour we all disembarked the train and headed down a local street where we saw a line of red limos, at least ten of them. Some were limo SUV’s. I naturally chose a stretch Mercedes and a young couple joined us. The procession drove for about twenty minutes through a forested highway and eventually reached the castle.

What a sight! Before us was this immense, stunning, ancient rose pink castle as we approached. The sky was gorgeous and the grounds we passed were sumptuous. There were formal gardens. We were approached by a photographer who took pictures on the steps of the castle and beside it. That was the picture we discovered in our cabin late at night after our return from the gala. A lone piper stood playing on a parapet and we gradually walked up the imposing steps and entered the castle. We were greeted by staff holding trays of you guessed it champagne, only this time it was fabulous Billecart- Salmon rosé https://www.champagne-billecart.fr/en/verification-age-legal-en?en and memories flooded my mind of our wedding, because that was what my sister had served, only the bottles had special labels that said Riki and Charles. We got married at her farm almost 40 years ago. That was a nice start to our evening. There were two docents organized to take half each of our group on a guided tour of the castle living quarters. The imposing Rembrandt on the wall of the sitting room was pretty spectacular. ‘An old woman reading’ is it’s title. There was so much fabulous art that we saw, and our guide recited all the history. In fact, the current Duke of Buccluech is still in residence. One of our group bumped into him when they were searching for a bathroom. Wish it had been me!

After our tour we were taken to a massive living room where a harpist serenaded us, and we were fed hors d’oeuvres before dinner. Eventually we got the call to go to the lavish dining room where the table was set for thirty. Some of the train staff joined us. Wonderful idea. Charles and I were seated in the centre of the table and Alex, the train manager, was on my right, a delightful, intelligent and very competent young man. Dinner started with smoked salmon, then venison and some sort of flaming dessert. All accompanied by fine wines. At about 10:00 we finished and departed in our cars. The food was exquisite and the service extraordinary, and apparently King Charles had eaten at the same table a few weeks earlier as Dunlanrig is not far from Balmoral castle his Scottish residence. Other notables like Winston Churchill had also supped there. It was all so magical and stimulating.

When we returned aboard the train, we went to the Observation car for cognacs, whiskey and dancing. It was wildly exhilarating. We waited until the next morning to pack for obvious reasons. Then our final breakfast was served and we arrived at Waverley station, left the train, and proceeded to hug the waiting staff on the platform. Even a few tears were shed. Our bags magically appeared in our room at The Balmoral where we stayed for our final night. Dinner in the restaurant was filed with talk about our trip, how it had been one of the best we had ever had. We were glowing, although that faded at 5:30 am when we had to wake up and head to the airport for an early flight back to Canada.

Farewell to Scotland! We loved you.

Riki